"Red Giant" taillight
compatible with the
Supernova®
headlight
or can be battery driven
Connecting the "Red Giant" up to the tail light leads of the Supernova E3 light is very easy. The Supernova takes the AC power from the hub dynamo and supplies a stable 6.0V DC supply to the tail light leads. The red lead is "+" and the blue lead is "-". You do not need to build any diodes or capacitors into the lamp when connecting it to the Supernova E3. The stand light feature of the Supernova will drive the "Red Giant" as a stand light too. I made the battery powered design after a friend from our triathlon club had mentioned he thought all of the commercial tail LED lights were not bright enough. He wanted a brighter tail light for more safety on the road when it was dark, even at the expense of shorter battery life. The battery powered "Red Giant" is just a modified version of the hub dynamo type. To keep things simple, there is no switch. Just clip the "9V" clip on the standard battery pack to turn the light on. To turn it off, disconnect the "9V" clip. Both types of tail lights are extremely bright and visible from a long way off and can be built for less than $5 excluding the hub dynamo or rechargeable batteries. On this page you will find out how you too can make the "Red Giant". It is the perfect companion to your Supernova hub dynamo bike light! The Reflector The following part numbers should work well: Post mount: RR-165-BPR (round) RR-180-BPR
(square), RR-290-BPR I have only used the RR-165-BPR and the RR-165-BSLR so far. The LED
Other Materials Applications 1. Used in conjunction with a Supernova headlight: For this design you do not need to to rectify the AC power from the hub dynamo. The Supernova lamp provides leads for a tail light and it is a stable 6V DC current. However, you will need to add a current limiting resistor in the circuit to keep from pushing too much current through the LED and burning it out. . 2. Use with 4 AA or AAA rechargeable batteries: Rechargeable batteries generally deliver 1.2 V so with 4 batteries you would have 4.8 V instead of 6V. Here are a few current measurements using fresh charged AAA NiMh batteries. For a bright light, but shorter battery life you can use the small resistors. For less light and longer battery life, you can use a larger resistor. A diode can substitute for a resistor here too.
3. Use with a hub dynamo: AC power output: In this case you need to rectify the AC power source with a full bridge rectifier. The design is detailed below and is very easy to assemble. |
|
R1 = 12 - 18 ohm (use with Super Nova E3) >1/2W
Moonstone LED Conrad 180869-62 1.80 |
|
| Avago Moonstone
SMT-MW62 1/2 W 3.7V, LED Characteristic Curves |
|
| Red Giant Assembly Type 1 (Supernova E3 Compatible) | |
Carefully and slowly pry open reflector |
Materials wire, reflector, LED resistor, two part epoxy putty, two part epoxy glue, solder |
Pretin the LED (-) lead and form resistor as shown. |
Solder the resistor as shown |
Drill a hole in the base as shown. When a pen knife, score the bottom of the reflector so the epoxy sticks better |
Mix a small piece of two part epoxy putty |
Press the epoxy putty in the middle, and press in LED and resistor assembly. |
Bring the power leads in through the holes in the base. Hold the leads down with two part epoxy putty as shown. |
Let epoxy putty cure for 5-10 minutes. Insulate bend in resistor as shown. cut (-) lead to size. |
Slip a piece of shrink tubing over the (-) lead. Solder (-) lead to resistor. |
Move shrink tubing over the joint and shrink. |
Cut the (+) to size, strip and solder as shown. |
Test connection on 4.8 - 6 V battery. |
Mix a little 2 part epoxy glue. Lay it in the lens groove. |
Place the lens carefully on the base. Hold down while curing with a piece of tape. |
Fill power cable hole with mixed 2 part epoxy to seal off hole. Let cure for 24 hours |
![]() done! |
|
| Red Giant Assembly Type 3 | |
![]() Pryed open reflector, resistor (13 ohm), bridge rectifier (type 3), LED |
![]() Drill a hole in the reflector base for feeding through the cable. |
![]() Straighten and flatten the leads of the LED and the bridge rectifier. For types 1 and 2 just skip assembling the bridge rectifier. |
![]() The rectifier needs to be flipped over so that the positive output lead lines up on the LED positive terminal (red dot side). |
![]() Trim the length of the leads to a minimum and pre tin the leads to help soldering. |
![]() Lay the leads on top of each other and solder together. ("+" lead to "+" terminal) |
![]() Prepare the resistor and assemble as shown. |
![]() Insulate the resistor and its leads with shrink tubing. |
![]() Scratch up the surface to the two-part epoxy putty will stick better. |
![]() Mix the two part epoxy putty, place it in the reflector base, and set in the LED assembly. |
![]() Thread the power cable in the hole in the base of the reflector. |
![]() Solder one end to the right terminal of the rectifier. Place some shrink tubing over the left lead. |
![]() Wrap and solder the resistor lead to the power lead. |
![]() Shift shrink tubing over the joint. Shrink tubing on joint. |
![]() Fix the power cable with two part epoxy |
Glue the cover back on. Hold cover tight with tape while curing. |
![]() Here is a finished hub dynamo tail light on my commuter bike. |
![]() Here is a finished battery driven design. The battery pack is in the saddle bag. |
![]() Hub dynamo LED tail light 48 gram with cable. |
![]() 4x AAA NiMh LED tail light with battery holder and 9V clip. 4xAA NiMh batteries can be used for longer life. 92 gram with 4 AAA batteries. |