This page will show how to make the complete Alien Eye "hybrid" design using two-part epoxy putty, a M4x12mm hexagon stand-off, and solid tinned copper wire.  I have a kit available with all the components if you would like to buy one.   You can order the kit on this page

Here are the major components of the bike light:   1.  Edison Opto 5 W LED    2.   Cateye quick disconnect mount  3.  5.5 x 2.1 mm connector,  4.  Mini rocker switch     5.  M4x12 mm Hexagon Standoff   6.  Washer    7.  Two component epoxy putty. 

The first part of these instructions will show you how to make the electrical connections for the switch and electrical power connection, and how to fix them in place so that their positions and alignments are not lost during other processing.   This design uses solid wire, with no insulation.  Read the instructions completely before starting your project.

For this operation you will need to cut three pieces of small diameter tinned wire (I use 0.4mm) solid wire into 35 mm lengths.   Stripping the wire is no longer needed and the solid wire is stiffer and helps hold the switch and connector in position while the two-part epoxy cures.   There is no need to use shrink tubing to stabilize the solder joints as the solid wire is more stable.  The solid wire can be easily routed to the terminals and excess wire can be cut away after wrapping the wire around the lamp terminals.  Since the wire is stiff it is easy to push the wire into position and there is no need to fix it down with two-part epoxy. 

When using the un-insulated pre-tinned copper wire, you need to make sure that the wires are routed so that they do not touch one another or else you will have a short circuit and could damage your batteries.  The wire from the bottom of the power connector must not come in contact with the outer threaded portion of the power connector, or else you will have a short circuit.    The wires connecting the terminals must not cross each other or there will be a short circuit. 

Keep the wires off of the surface where the M4x12mm stand-off will be fixed with the two-part epoxy.  This is much easier to accomplish with the solid wire than with normal flexible insulated wire. 

I highly recommend having something to hold the switch and the barrel connector during soldering so that both hands are free.   The center connection on the barrel connector is difficult enough to solder without melting the plastic, let along trying to hold it with the other hand.   My methods of holding the parts during soldering are shown in the instructions below. 

When fixing the components with the two part epoxy putty, it is important to use just enough material to fix the position.    Place the material between the white plastic lamp base and the component you are fixing.   You do not need to apply material completely around the switch or the power connector.   These outer surfaces can be more easily covered during the application of the outer shell and will lead to better looking and more consistent results.

If you are particular about if the "on position" of the switch is up or down, you need to plan ahead and decide what side the switch should be on (right or left) and the orientation of the switch before soldering.   If you want to use two lamps, you might want to make right hand and left hand versions. 

After the electrical connections are finished and the M4x12 mm stand-off is fixed, the Fimo will applied for the outer shell.  If small cracks should appear in the Fimo after baking, it is not serious since the two-part epoxy putty is the main structural part.  Glass fibers can still be mixed with the Fimo for additional strength and to prevent small cracks when using pure Fimo.

All the materials needed for this lamp excpet solder and silicon rubber are  available in a kit.  

So let's start!

Remove the 3 screws holding in the lens.

Remove the lens since the plastic lens can be damaged
by the heat in the baking cycles.  Put it in a safe place.

Option:  Seal off back end of lamp with silicon rubber

Remove the two screws holding the
connector base.

Carefully pull back the connector base.

The wires are stiff.

Apply silicon rubber around the shoulder of the connector base.

Make sure the area around the screws is covered.

Press the connector base back into position.

Replace the screws in the connector base.

Wipe the excess silicon rubber from the lamp.
Let the Silicon cure for 24 horus.

Put the screws in a safe place so they do not get lost.

The parts you will need.    Barrel connector, switch,
3 pieces of 32-35 mm long solid wire;
2 pcs with small 90º  bends.

Cut the terminals of the lamp to about 3-4 mm.

After cutting.  Remove the silver sticker on the lamp base.

Unscrew the plastic housing on the barrel connector.
Bend the lead on barrel connector 90º.

Cut off part of the lead on the barrel connector
just before the hole stamped in the lead.

Here is the mini rocker switch with tabs for holding in a housing.

Cut off the tabs on the side of the rocker switch

Find something with a hole in it to mount the barrel
connector for soldering.  A male plug works well to
hold the connector steady.  
Soldering is much easier if the connector is held stable.

Assemble the barrel connector over a male plug
or something else to hold the part steady. 

The male plug also acts as heat sink for soldering. 

Tin the 90º lead and the central hole with solder.

Solder one of the bend leads in the center of the connector.
Solder the straight lead to the side of the connector.

Tin the terminal on the right hand side (under the "0" on the switch).
Do not apply too much heat for too long to the
switch as it can be easily melted.
(I used 335º C soldering iron tip temperature)

Solder the bent end wire to the terminal.  
The bend end in this case faces up.  The lead in this case will
be routed in the opposite direction of the terminal to
keep the wire off the face where the stand off will be mounted.

Solder the wire as shown in the picture. 

Turn the switch around, tin the other lead and solder the
wire coming from the bottom of the power connector
to the switch as shown in the picture. 

Bottom View:
Switch/connector ready for assembly to the lamp

Top View:
Switch/connector ready for assembly to the lamp

Set the switch on the lamp as shown and pull the
solid copper wire and make two wraps around the
right hand lamp terminal.

You can use tweezers to help wrap
the wire on the lamp terminal.

Cut the excess wire.
Solder the wire to the terminal.
(I used a 400º C soldering tip temperature
to get a good looking joint)

Position the power connector on the opposite side
of the lamp and route the wire from the 90º tab to the left
of the left lamp terminal.   Wrap around the terminal twice.

Left terminal wrapped from the left side.

Cut away any excess wire.

Solder the wire to the lamp terminal. 

Check connections to see if lamp works. 
Make sure none of the wires touch each other.

Mix thoroughly 1/4 of the two-part epoxy putty segment.
The color must be uniform to be properly mixed.

Lift the switch up to provide access to put
putty on the edge of the lamp.

Tear off about 1/3 of the putty and place it on the edge of the lamp connector.   Press the switch into the putty so that a portion of the
switch is resting on the edge of the lamp connector.  
The bottom of the switch will be supported by the putty. 

Move the excess putty back around the switch to
provide better support.

Move the connector away from the lamp base.  

Place 1/3 of the mixed putty in the middle of the side of the
lamp base as shown in the picture. 

Press the connector into the putty.   Straighten the connector.

This is the side opposite from the
Cateye handle bar mount.    This side has
the wire from the switch to the connector. 
This will be the top of the lamp.

Align the connector shoulder with the shoulder of the switch.

Press the M4x12 mm stand-off into the putty,
in line with the soldered lamp terminals. 
One hexagon flat  should be pressed in to the corner
of the white plastic lamp base.  
Make sure the stand-off is in the corner and is perpendicular.

Distribute the putty around the stand off.  Do not move
putty into the cooling ribs  just yet. 

Make sure all parts are straight and perpendicular.  
Let the epoxy putty harden for 5-10 minutes.

View from the bottom.

Mix more putty.   Fill the three (3)  cooling ribs in front of
the stand-off with putty.   Use a tool or tooth pick 
to press the putty into the cooling ribs.

Assemble the washer and the M4 screw from Cateye mount.  Bring the putty up flush to the washer. 

Take the remaining putty and fill out around the
washer and the lamp base.   Keep the putty well inside the
diameter of the lamp's white plastic base.
Let the putty harden.

Test the lamp once again to make sure all the
connections are intact.
Let the two-part epoxy cure for several hours.

To help reduce the possibility of the Fimo cracking,
temper/out gas the epoxy putty for 15 minutes at 100-110º C.
Place the lamp in the oven on the aluminum
housing as shown.   Make sure the shelf is in the
middle of the over and that the fan is on. 

To keep Fimo smudges and finger prints off the
aluminum housing, you can mask the
housing off with tape.

Prepare your Fimo.   Cut some small strips of Fimo.

Apply the small strips of Fimo in the cooling ribs. 
A total of 7 cooling ribs will be filled in with Fimo.

The Fimo is applied to the three middle ribs that has the
epoxy putty and then to the two ribs on either side,
for a total of 7 cooling ribs filled with Fimo.

Add Fimo to the middle, to bring the plane
flush with the washer.

Assemble the Cateye mount and see if the
Fimo is flush with the mount.  Tighten the mount
down to squeeze down the Fimo that is too high.

Remove the mount and press down any raised surfaces.
Apply a small piece (10x18 mm) of baking paper
just in front of the washer.   The baking paper will help
keep material out of the spring loaded mount slide..

Fill the voids in the Cateye mount with Fimo.

Reassemble the Cateye mount.   Check the alignment.
Tighten down the screw

Cut a piece of Fimo to wrap around the back of the lamp
on top of the two part epoxy putty.

Press the Fimo into all the gaps and
onto the surface of the epoxy putty.

Apply Fimo in and around the switch and the white lamp
base so there is a consistent surface all around.

Continue to apply material around the lamp base. 
Make sure the material does not extend over the
diameter of the lamp base.

Apply material to the area between the switch and connector. 

Cut a small piece of material and apply it
under the shoulder of the switch. 

Cut a small piece of material and apply it
under the shoulder of the connector. 

Cut a piece of the Fimo sheet off and lay it in
between the switch and connector.

Cut a rectangular piece of Fimo 18 mm x 90 mm.

Lay the Fimo on the lamp in line with and just covering
the thin edge of the  white lamp base.  The other edge
of the Fimo  should come up to the shoulder on the switch. 
If it is too wide or too long, cut off what is needed to make it fit.

Press the Fimo down and around the shoulders
of the switch and connector.  

See how the white lamp base is covered with the Fimo.  
Press the edge of the Fimo down, but not so hard as to
move material into the cooling ribs.   
While pressing apply force to move the material
towards the switch and connector ends. 

Cut a small piece of Fimo to fit in the gap in front
of the large rectangle you just laid down. 
Cut the strip if it is too long.

Lay a strip of material at the base.

Do the same for the other side.  

Smooth the material out with your fingers.  
If the material is warm it will smooth out easier.

Lay in more material if needed and smoouth out with your fingers.

Smoouth out the material with your fingers.
Use ever lighter pressure to create a smooth surface.

Check the surface for irregularies and finger prints.  
Smooth out as needed.

Remove the masking tape before baking.
Double check the finish for finger prints before baking.

Bake the part for 40 minutes at 100-110º C.
Place the lamp in the oven on the aluminum
housing as shown.   Make sure the shelf is in the
middle of the over and that the fan is on. 
Let the lamp slow cool with the door shut.

After the lamp is baked and has cooled down....

Place silicon rubber in the groove of the die casting. 

With your finger, smooth and distribute the
silicon rubber uniformly in the groove.

Carefully place the lens in the lamp.

Apply Silicon rubber to the edge in the plastic trim piece.
This will also help keep the trim piece from breaking
or cracking since it is a fragile part.

With your finger, smooth and distribute the
silicon rubber uniformly in the edge of the trim piece. 

Assemble the plastic ring

Press the lamp down on the trim pieced
to flatten out the silicon rubber.
Wipe excess silcon rubber away. 

Replace the screws. 

If the spring loaded slider hangs, unscrew the plate. 
Press on the slider to remove the plate.

Remove the material that is hanging the slider up with a knife.
Replace the plate and screw down tightly.